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What is rolled gold and how to care for it ?

April 16, 2018 31 Comments

What is rolled gold and how to care for it ? - Lulu + Belle ® Jewellery

At Lulu + Belle we love using 14 kt rolled gold in our pieces as it is a high quality and durable product that is second only to solid gold. We know that there can be some confusion over what rolled gold is and how to care for it, so here's a little guide that answers the most common questions we are asked. 

WHAT EXACTLY IS 14 kt ROLLED GOLD ? 

'Rolled gold' which is also known as 'gold-filled' or 'gold fill' is a material that has 1/20th of pure 14 kt gold content by weight. The material is made by pressure bonding multiple layers of solid 14 kt pure gold to a core of high quality jeweller's brass, creating a durable material which has a high quantity of 'pure gold'. While the term 'gold filled' is used, the actual pure gold layer all sits on the outside of the brass core. 

IS ROLLED GOLD THE SAME AS GOLD PLATED? 

No. Rolled gold material has many times more pure gold than gold plated and the bonding process for rolled gold results in a much more durable material than gold plated. There are very strict standards for the manufacture of rolled gold and 14 kt rolled gold must have at least 5% solid gold content. There are no official standards for gold plate and 'gold plated' jewellery could have any thickness of gold in the plated layer. 

IS GOLD PLATING OVER SILVER BETTER THAN ROLLED GOLD?

Customers sometimes think that rolled gold is a less valuable material than gold plated sterling silver (also known as vermeil) because the core metal of rolled gold is jeweller's brass rather than sterling silver.  Rolled gold is actually a more valuable material than gold plated silver, because it is the solid gold that is the most valuable material and rolled gold has more solid gold than all gold plated material. Rolled Gold is also created in a way that the pure gold layer won't wear off over time and is a more long-lasting and durable product than even heavy gold plated silver jewellery. 

CAN ALL JEWELLERY BE MADE FROM ROLLED GOLD ?

There are limitations to what can be done with rolled gold. In general for example, our jewellery starts with sheets of rolled gold material or rolled gold wire to make our rolled gold personalised necklaces, bracelets and earrings in the studio.  If we want to make a piece with lots of detail, such as our 'the mountains are calling pendant', this is first designed in wax and then cast in sterling silver and finished with a heavy layer of 18kt gold.  Rolled gold wouldn't be suitable for such pieces as it is generally available as sheet metal or wire so gold plating or solid gold is more often used for cast pieces. 

WHY SHOULD I CHOOSE ROLLED GOLD JEWELLERY ? 

If you love the look of solid gold jewellery but find the price inaccessible for everyday pieces,  rolled gold is a good alternative.  Rolled gold has the exact look and colour of solid gold but is much more affordable. Your rolled gold jewellery will also last for a long time with a little care. 

WILL MY SKIN TURN GREEN WITH ROLLED GOLD? 

No. Rolled gold does not contain copper and has a thick gold layer pressure bonded to the core metal, so it will not leave a green residue on your skin. 

WILL MY ROLLED GOLD JEWELLERY FLAKE OFF OR TARNISH?

Rolled gold will not flake off over time as it is durable product due to bonding process when it is manufactured. Flaking of the gold layer is more common is gold plated jewellery.  Rolled gold does not tarnish easily, but residues and oils from the skin may build up on the jewellery over time.  We recommend giving your pieces a gentle polish with soft, gold polishing cloth from time to time to keep your jewellery looking shiny. 

CARING FOR YOUR ROLLED GOLD JEWELLERY

How to care for your rolled gold jewellery

HOW DO I CLEAN MY ROLLED GOLD JEWELLERY?

Give your rolled gold jewellery a gentle polish from time to time with a soft gold polishing cloth. We particularly like the blue sunshine polishing cloths which will bring the shine back to your pieces. You can gently run the chain through the polishing cloth to make it shiny and bright. 

If your rolled gold jewellery needs a more thorough clean, you can wash it gently in warm water and mild soap and pat it dry with a very soft cloth. Be careful not to scratch your pieces when washing and drying. 

HOW CAN I HELP MY ROLLED GOLD JEWELLERY LAST ?

Try to avoid getting perfumes and lotions on your jewellery, in particular sun-screen can be damaging to the precious metal. When applying lotions, allow them to absorb fully before you put on your jewellery.  If you do get lotions on your jewellery, gently wash it off with water and a mild soap, particularly the chain. 

CAN I SWIM AND WEAR MY JEWELLERY IN THE SHOWER?

We recommend removing your jewellery for showering and particularly for swimming in chlorinated water, hot-tubs or in the sea.  The chemicals in pools and hot-tubs will damage precious metals and could leave your pieces looking dull and tarnished. 

SHOULD I WEAR MY JEWELLERY FOR SPORTS?

Removing your jewellery for sports will also prolong the life of your pieces as sweat can also affect your piece over time, depending on your own body chemistry.  There is also the risk of damaging or snagging delicate chains when playing sports. 

Click to discover our collection of rolled gold necklaces, rolled gold bracelets and earrings




31 Responses

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Goldrateqatar
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February 05, 2026

Rolled gold, also known as gold-filled, involves bonding layers of 14 kt gold to a brass core, resulting in a durable and high-quality material. Unlike gold plating, rolled gold contains more gold and is less prone to wear and tarnish. It’s a cost-effective alternative to solid gold, offering the same appearance. To maintain its shine, simply polish with a soft cloth periodically.
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AliAlhabsi
AliAlhabsi

February 05, 2026

This article provides valuable information about rolled gold jewelry, clarifying common misconceptions and offering care tips. It emphasizes the durability and affordability of rolled gold compared to gold-plated and gold vermeil jewelry. The care instructions provided are practical and helpful for maintaining the appearance of rolled gold pieces over time. Overall, it’s a comprehensive guide for those considering rolled gold jewelry.
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Cleto

February 05, 2026

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February 05, 2026

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ERIJEWELRY
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February 05, 2026

If properly cared for, rolled gold jewelry can last a very long time. To clean rolled gold jewelry, simply use soap and water with a cloth or a soft bristled brush. You may be wondering, what is gold filled jewellery and how it is different to solid gold or gold plated jewellery?
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Jim Higgins
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February 05, 2026

Many years ago inherited 3 pocket watches,two actually work, with them was a pocket watch chain with a T bar and double g clamps.
It is Stamped Rolled Gold on the T.
Does it have any value. Thanks.

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Gianni menga

February 05, 2026

have got a rolled gold bracelet,had it for years paid pennies for it, but it does look expensive!!

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Shelly Roberts
Shelly Roberts

February 05, 2026

In your article, you consistently describe 14kt gold as ‘pure’. It is not. It is impure gold, an alloy. You may only describe 24kt as pure gold. The article is misleading.

Frank
Frank

February 05, 2026

I have been offered a double Albert chain for my fob watch. The box says rolled gold but I cannot see any markings on the item or box. Allegedly £70 new but offered for £60. The weight is approx 50 Grams. Can you give me any tips to assist. Many thanks, Frank

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February 05, 2026

When I have really deep engraving done on your gold rolled jewelry do I have to be concerned with exposing the base metal of brass to the elements? I am planning to have some deep hand engraving done. I observe on an old gold filled watch I have it is very deeply hand engraved and yet there is no sign of oxidation of the base metal.
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